Executive Summary
- The Report: "Securing the Future of UK Hairdressing & Beauty" by CBI Economics (February 2025)
- £2.4bn VAT Loss: Calculation shows £22.7m reality; would take 100+ years at actual rate
- 93% Employment Fall: Total workforce stable; they measured only employee decline
- Zero Apprenticeships by 2027: Projection to zero from declining trend, not forecast
- £14.4bn Productivity Loss: Methodology undefined, assumptions unverified
- CBI Response: Offered phone call, declined to defend methodology in writing
The Report's Context
In February 2025, the British Hair Consortium (BHC) - a coalition including the Hair & Barber Council - published "Securing the Future of UK Hairdressing & Beauty," a report by CBI Economics advocating for VAT reform.
H&BC's press release announcing the report stated:
This is significant. The report is not independent economic analysis that happened to reach conclusions favorable to H&BC. Rather, H&BC acknowledges being "an integral part of the drafting" - suggesting this is commissioned advocacy presented as economic research.
The press release also introduces new financial claims not fully explained in the report itself:
- "A split-rate VAT model could be cost-neutral, or even positive with a gain of £0.75bn by 2030"
- "The gain could rise to £1.5bn if registration levels are restored to their historic levels"
These figures (£0.75bn gain, potentially £1.5bn) appear to be additional projections based on assumptions about preventing de-registrations and increasing registrations. The methodology for these projections is not disclosed.
The report makes dramatic claims about sector collapse and enormous tax losses. Its foreword, signed by Gareth Penn as "Chief Executive, Hair & Barber Council," presents these as established facts requiring urgent government intervention.
This analysis examines whether the report's major claims withstand scrutiny against official government data.
Gareth Penn's Foreword: The Opening Statement
Penn's foreword presents a series of stark claims that frame the entire report. Let's examine each:
Penn's Key Claims
"£2.4 billion in VAT receipts" lost due to VAT system flaws
Status: Calculation shows £22.7m reality over 4 years; 100x exaggeration
"Employment in the sector will fall by 93%"
Status: Total workforce stable; measures only employee decline while self-employment grows
"By 2027, there will be no apprenticeships left"
Status: Projection to zero from trend line, not actual forecast; starts recovered to 2019 levels
"£14.4 billion by 2030" in productivity losses
Status: Methodology undefined; assumptions unverified; cumulative vs annual unclear
"Mandatory register" needed for all professionals
Status: Contradicts 1964 Act creating voluntary register only
Penn signs as "Chief Executive, Hair & Barber Council." The 1964 Act creates a "Hairdressing Council" with a "Registrar." The title "Chief Executive" suggests corporate executive authority rather than statutory officer of a voluntary register.
Every major statistical claim in Penn's foreword appears in our detailed analysis to be either mathematically impossible or based on misleading presentation of data.
Claim 1: The £2.4 Billion VAT Loss
The report's central claim is that VAT system flaws have resulted in "an estimated loss of £2.4 billion in VAT receipts alone."
This figure appears designed to shock - billions in lost revenue creates urgency for intervention. So how was it calculated?
Attempting to Verify
Using HMRC data on salon closures and VAT de-registrations, we can check whether this figure is plausible:
Calculating Actual VAT Loss from Closures
£22.7 Million
VAT loss from 900 salon closures over 4 years at £25k average
£2.4 Billion
Claimed VAT loss from "structural flaws" - no methodology provided
The Timeline Problem
At the actual rate of VAT loss from salon closures (£22.7m over 4 years), it would take over 100 years to accumulate £2.4 billion in lost VAT revenue.
The Response When Challenged
When this calculation was presented to CBI Economics with a request to "clarify the time period and methodology behind the £2.4 billion VAT loss," their response was notable:
CBI Economics Response
Offered a phone call to discuss the methodology. Declined to provide written explanation or defend the calculation in writing.
"I am old enough to know written word trumps all." - Andrew Clelland's response to the offer
When a major economic consultancy is challenged on a £2.4bn figure and offers only a phone conversation rather than written methodology, it raises questions about whether the figure can be defended in writing.
Claim 2: The 93% Employment Fall
The report forecasts: "Employment in the sector will fall by 93%, meaning that the Government's Worker Rights Bill will have little impact."
This claim has been analysed in detail elsewhere, but briefly:
"93% Employment Fall"
Creates impression: Sector losing 93% of jobs
Used to argue: Worker Rights Bill will be irrelevant
Employment Model Shift
Reality: Traditional employees decline 93% while self-employment grows proportionally
Total workforce: Remains stable at ~231,000
The report measures the decline in traditional employees (from 86,800 to projected 6,468) and presents this as "employment fall." Their own Figure 5 shows total workforce at 231,000 in 2030, barely changed from 232,700 in 2024.
HMRC data shows total workforce at 398,000 (PAYE + self-employed), having grown 2.1% from 2018-19 to 2022-23.
Claim 3: Zero Apprenticeships by 2027
The foreword states: "By 2027, there will be no apprenticeships left in the sector, resulting in a £3.2 billion loss in lifetime productivity benefits."
This is based on projecting a declining trend line to zero. However:
- Apprenticeship starts in 2023-24: 6,670 (recovered to 2019 levels)
- 2024-25: 6,350 (slight decline from recovery peak)
- 2025-26 Q1-Q2: 2,440 (partial year data)
Projection vs Forecast
A projection extends a trend line mathematically. A forecast considers whether that trend is likely to continue.
Projecting a declining trend to zero doesn't mean there will be zero apprenticeships - it means if the trend continued unchanged, it would reach zero. These are not the same thing.
Since 2025-26 already shows 2,440 starts in partial data, the "zero by 2027" claim appears to be a projection presented as inevitable outcome rather than a realistic forecast.
Claim 4: The £14.4 Billion Productivity Loss
The report claims "£3.2 billion loss in lifetime productivity benefits, potentially rising to £14.4 billion by 2030."
When challenged to provide "details on the assumptions driving this projection, particularly in relation to workforce trends, economic inflation, and the potential long-term impacts on productivity," CBI Economics again offered only a phone call.
Key questions remain unanswered:
- Methodology: How is "lifetime productivity benefit" calculated?
- Baseline: What's the comparison point for measuring "loss"?
- Cumulative vs Annual: Is £14.4bn cumulative over years or annual loss in 2030?
- Assumptions: What workforce trends, inflation rates, and productivity multipliers are used?
- Verification: Can this be reconciled with official productivity and earnings data?
Without methodology, these figures cannot be verified or challenged. They appear designed to add additional billions to the crisis narrative.
Claim 5: The Hidden Economy
The report references "a rising hidden economy" that will "further deprive the Exchequer of vital employment-related tax revenues."
When challenged to "detail how this was estimated and reconciled with HMRC data," CBI Economics offered a phone call.
The hidden economy is, by definition, unmeasured. Any estimate requires explaining:
- What methodology was used to estimate unmeasured activity
- What evidence suggests it is "rising"
- How much tax revenue this represents
- How this reconciles with official employment and VAT data
Adding unmeasured tax losses from unmeasured economic activity is convenient for inflating crisis figures, but impossible to verify.
Sample Size and Representativeness
The report's findings rely on a survey of 542 respondents. For context:
Survey Sample vs Total Sector
542 respondents out of 48,000 UK salons = 1.13% sample
When challenged on "what measures were taken to ensure this sample is representative of the 48,000 UK salons," CBI Economics offered a phone call.
Questions about sample representativeness include:
- Self-selection bias: Did those responding have stronger views about VAT than non-respondents?
- Geographic distribution: Does the sample match the regional distribution of salons?
- Business size: Are different size categories proportionally represented?
- Employment models: Are traditional employed salons vs self-employed models proportionally represented?
A 1.13% sample can be representative if properly stratified, but the methodology for ensuring representativeness hasn't been disclosed.
The VAT Reform Proposal: Who Actually Pays?
The report proposes "split-rate VAT" with services at 10% and goods at 20%. Penn's foreword states: "To be clear, this reform is not a tax cut."
However:
- Current VAT rate on salon services: 20%
- Proposed VAT rate on salon services: 10%
- This is, definitionally, a tax rate cut
The report estimates this would cost £167 million annually in reduced VAT receipts. When challenged on "how is it suggested this should be funded," CBI Economics offered a phone call.
The Hidden Cost: Threshold Reduction
The report's proposal includes a critical element that appears designed to make the rate cut "revenue neutral": lowering the VAT registration threshold from £90,000 to £30,000.
What This Actually Means
Current situation: Salons with turnover below £90k don't charge VAT (approximately 70% of salons)
Proposed change: Lower threshold to £30k, forcing most of these salons to register for VAT
Net effect: Small businesses currently exempt would start charging VAT to fund rate cut for larger businesses already registered
Rate Cut Benefit
Impact: VAT charged to customers drops from 20% to 10%
Result: Can reduce prices or increase margins
New VAT Burden
Impact: Must start charging VAT where they currently don't
Result: Prices increase or margins decrease, plus VAT admin burden
The Arithmetic of "Revenue Neutrality"
How Small Businesses Fund the Rate Cut
New VAT revenue from previously exempt businesses
Losers: Small salons forced into VAT for first time
Treasury: Roughly neutral (hence "revenue neutral")
The proposal is structured so that approximately 30% of salons (already VAT registered, larger businesses) get a rate cut funded by approximately 70% of salons (currently exempt, smaller businesses) being forced into VAT registration.
This Isn't Tax Reform - It's Wealth Transfer
The "revenue neutral" rate cut works by making small businesses that currently don't charge VAT start charging it, so that larger businesses that already charge VAT can charge less. Small salons fund the rate cut for larger salons.
Impact on Small Businesses
For a salon currently turning over £40,000-£89,000 (below current threshold, above proposed threshold):
| Aspect | Current (£90k threshold) | Proposed (£30k threshold) |
|---|---|---|
| VAT Registration | Not required | Mandatory |
| VAT Added to Prices | No VAT charged | 10% VAT added |
| Price Competitiveness | 10-20% price advantage vs VAT-registered competitors | Advantage eliminated |
| Administrative Burden | No VAT returns | Quarterly VAT returns required |
| Cash Flow | No VAT payment delay | Must collect and remit VAT quarterly |
Small businesses would face:
- Price increase requirement: Must add 10% to prices or absorb it in margins
- Competitive disadvantage: Lose current price advantage over larger salons
- Administrative costs: VAT registration, accounting, quarterly returns
- Cash flow impact: Collecting VAT from customers, holding it, remitting quarterly
- Compliance risk: Penalties for late filing or errors
Who Benefits From This Reform?
Cui Bono? (Who Benefits?)
Clear Winners:
- Larger salons already VAT registered (30% of sector) - get rate cut from 20% to 10%
- Salon chains and franchises - largest beneficiaries of rate reduction
- Organisations representing larger businesses
Clear Losers:
- Small independent salons currently exempt (70% of sector) - forced into VAT
- Single operators and micro-businesses - lose competitive advantage
- Sole traders maintaining turnover below £90k threshold
When asked "how is it suggested this should be funded," CBI Economics offered a phone call rather than stating explicitly: "by forcing small businesses to pay VAT so we can reduce it for large businesses."
Alternative Approaches Not Considered
Other potential VAT reforms that wouldn't transfer costs to small businesses:
- Raise the threshold: Increase £90k to £120k+, giving more businesses VAT exemption
- Graduated approach: Sliding scale between threshold and full rate
- Input VAT on labour: Allow VAT-registered businesses to reclaim VAT on wages (like other inputs)
- Sector-specific threshold: Higher threshold for labour-intensive services
These alternatives would help small businesses rather than using them to fund rate cuts for larger businesses. The report doesn't appear to analyse alternatives that don't benefit its commissioning organizations.
Mandatory Registration Advocacy
Penn's foreword advocates for "a mandatory register of all hairdressing professionals," stating: "Without a register, VAT avoidance and disguised employment will continue unchecked."
However, the Hairdressers (Registration) Act 1964 creates only a voluntary register. Section 2 states registration is for persons "who apply in the prescribed manner to be so registered."
Mandatory registration would require new primary legislation. Using a report on VAT reform to advocate for fundamentally changing the statutory basis of the Hair & Barber Council raises questions about the report's objectives.
The Pattern Across Claims
| Claim | Report Says | Verification Shows | When Challenged |
|---|---|---|---|
| VAT Loss | £2.4 billion | £22.7 million (HMRC data) | Phone call offered |
| Employment Fall | 93% decline | Total workforce stable | N/A (in report) |
| Apprenticeships | Zero by 2027 | Projection, not forecast | N/A (in report) |
| Productivity Loss | £14.4 billion | Methodology undefined | Phone call offered |
| Hidden Economy | Rising tax losses | Estimation method unknown | Phone call offered |
| Sample Size | 542 respondents | Representativeness unverified | Phone call offered |
Every major claim either fails verification against official data or lacks disclosed methodology. When challenged in writing, CBI Economics declined to defend calculations in writing.
What This Means for Policy
The report is being used to advocate for significant policy changes:
- Split-rate VAT (10% on services)
- Cost: £167 million annually
- Mandatory professional registration
- Presented as urgent crisis requiring immediate intervention
When policy advocacy is built on statistics that don't withstand scrutiny, it raises fundamental questions:
- Are policymakers receiving accurate information about sector challenges?
- Is the case for intervention being overstated?
- Are legitimate sector issues being undermined by exaggerated claims?
- Who benefits if these policies are enacted based on incorrect analysis?
The Real Sector Challenges
This analysis doesn't claim the sector faces no challenges. Legitimate concerns exist:
- VAT threshold effects: Creating bunching and distortions
- Disguised employment: Tax compliance issues in chair rental models
- Business costs: Rising rent, rates, utilities affecting viability
- Skills development: Training pathways and apprenticeship quality
- Employment model shifts: Implications for worker protections
These deserve serious policy discussion. They don't require fabricated crisis statistics to warrant attention.
When economic analysis is commissioned by organisations with clear policy objectives (VAT cuts, mandatory registration), and that analysis presents unverifiable claims that conveniently support those objectives, it undermines the credibility of legitimate sector advocacy.
Conclusion
The CBI Economics report "Securing the Future of UK Hairdressing & Beauty" makes dramatic claims: £2.4bn VAT loss, 93% employment fall, zero apprenticeships by 2027, £14.4bn productivity loss by 2030.
Verification against HMRC data shows the £2.4bn claim is 106x larger than calculations suggest. The 93% employment fall measures only employee decline while total workforce remains stable. Zero apprenticeships is a projection to zero, not a forecast. The £14.4bn productivity figure has undisclosed methodology.
When challenged in writing on these calculations, CBI Economics offered phone calls rather than written defense of their methodology.
The report's foreword, signed by Gareth Penn as "Chief Executive, Hair & Barber Council," presents these claims as established facts requiring urgent government action, including split-rate VAT and mandatory professional registration.
The sector faces genuine challenges that warrant policy attention. But when advocacy is built on statistics that don't withstand scrutiny, it risks undermining the case for addressing real issues with real solutions.
Economic analysis commissioned to support predetermined policy objectives should be subject to the highest standards of methodological transparency. This report does not meet that standard.
Source Documents
All documents available for independent verification:
- CBI Economics Report - "Securing the Future of UK Hairdressing & Beauty" (Full Text)
- HMRC Employment Data (FOI Responses)
- HMRC VAT Registration Data
- Apprenticeship Statistics (DfE)
- Challenge Letter to CBI Economics
- CBI Economics Response
Full source archive: data.salonlogicpro.co.uk/sources/
Every calculation can be verified against official HMRC data. Challenge our analysis: analysis@salonlogicpro.co.uk